Fashion at The Costume Institute Gala at The Met 2009

I am trying to get that laid back California charm to rub off on me. Be a gentler, nicer, calmer person. But then I had two glasses of delicious Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut NV fizz in the Club drawing room at the Ritz Carlton, had a quick peek at the first images from the Met Costume Institute Gala on WWD, and my inner fashion savage screamed that she wanted to come out to play.

I blame Kate Moss. Hers was the first picture I saw and all I cld think was: sweet mother of God, it's Granny. I've written about her before:she loved her bronzer, kaftans, platforms & turbans well into her seventies. Looked JUST like Kate did last night. Uncanny.

I was a good girl after the Golden Globes. I turned down all offers to appear on radio to dissect (bitch about) the fashion, satisfying myself with a look at the machinations & deal-making behind the scenes on the blog.

Because, honestly, I don't see the point in criticising a celeb for their red carpet apparel when what they wear so rarely has anything to do with their personal taste. At the mercy of the designers who (pay to) dress them, their publicists who want coverage no matter what, and their entourages who are just yes-men (you look FIERCE dahling), you can't blame the star for being so befuddled that they end up thinking that this was a good idea:


Although part of me thinks at least Leighton is having fun. And she has the rest of her life to wear a chiffon gee-own. Unlike Liz Hurley who really needs to think long and hard about putting the prom dress look into perma-storage. (I feel I can take a pop at Liz whose entire life is about getting commented on. But I do draw the line of running a photo of her.)

I did love Liv Tyler & Kate Bosworth for rocking 1940's glamour in such a sophisticated, yet fashion forward way, and the fab, healthy, leggy models like Gisele, Karolina & Lily for playing to the gallery and showing off their endless pins in micro mini dresses. But my two favourite looks are at different ends of the spectrum:


At least Madge owns her Louis Vuitton runway look & is clearly having a laugh. (I wld pass on the hooker boots mind you). And, frankly, I think she rocks her bunny ears. But the palm goes to Carolina Herrera. When I grow up, I want to have her elan.


Images from WWD. Click here for the whole ghastly extravaganza.

The Golden Globes red carpet fashion

So: the Golden Globes last night. Given my profession, I do feel it behoves me to at least vaguely engage with red carpet fashion, even though it seems to me to be increasingly redundant to judge a woman’s fashion sense based on her ability to pay $10K to hire a stylist to wrangle dresses on her behalf. After all, the likes of Kate Winslet, Nicole Kidman or Meryl Streep are hardly fashion plates off duty.

I don’t really care what the stars look like, but I am interested to know which designers are being represented on the red carpet. In the current fiscal climate it makes better economic sense for a house to dress a star and to see those pictures endlessly printed in the world’s media than to fork out hundreds of thousands on a one hit wonder print ad in Vague. Still it’s an extremely expensive business: several couture versions of a dress may be made in a designer’s Parisian atelier (as Theyskens did so successfully at Nina Ricci for Reese Witherspoon at the 2007 Oscars) and there is absolutely no guarantee that the dresses will be worn by the often capricious stars.

This is why many houses cut to the chase and just pay an actress to wear the dress. (Come on, you didn’t think the whole affair was anything less than transactional did you? The star pays the stylist, who brokers the deal, and the house pays the star. Everyone wins.) I don’t think it serendipity that Armani’s patronage of the Sydney Theatre Company of which Cate Blanchett is Artistic Director coincided with the normally Balenciaga-loving star suddenly appearing in a series of Armani horrors at galas and Armani shows a few seasons ago. (I love that Cate Blanchett uses her stardom to such good effect for the community, rather than trousering the cash herself.)

Still, budgets are being squished everywhere and, as I expected, there was scant evidence of minor designers dressing anyone or anything approaching edgy or risky on the red carpet. No house can risk a dud frock in this climate. (Although I do have to take issue with Renee Zellweger’s Carolina Herrera frock, because it only worked when seen full length. Cropped in on the torso the proportions didn’t work. An oddly rookie mistake from the usually red carpet reliable Herrera).

My whole attitude to the celebrity parade was summed up by the glorious Kristen Scott Thomas who, upon being asked what she was wearing, replied simply, “Skin”.

Sex and the City movie full length trailer

I could be all po-faced about the Sex & The City movie, pointing out that there isn't a lot to admire in a series that posited that a woman's main obsessions in life are shoes and finding a husband, that a woman must be judged solely on her fashion sense regardless of the arena she inhabits, that neuroticism is obligatory and anal-obsessed naval gazing is the norm.

But that would be to imply that I didn't enjoy the series, which I did, enormously. What annoys me is that SATC has become another stick with which to beat thirty-something women. In an ideal world, men would never be allowed to watch it, to avoid them taking it seriously (why do men seem to treat it as a documentary?)

Anyway, preamble over: here is the full-length trailer that was released on Friday. The movie is released May 30 in the USA.

Kate Beckinsale's stylist must really hate her...

Three things go towards making a successful red carpet look: the dress, the actress and the stylist who oversees to the total look.
Continuing with my bad styling theme for this year's Oscars, I present Kate Beckinsale:
1)beautiful actress, 2)interesting dress, 3) appalling styling.
Pic: Style.com

Why Oscar red carpet fashion went low key in 2008

This was a year of understated glamour, subtle embellishments and low key dresses at the Oscars. If there were trains, they floated rather than swooshed, colours were muted and breasts were contained. These were dresses for actresses rather than models, and what a refreshing change this made.

Sure, some commentators called this year’s red carpet ‘safe’ and ‘boring’, but we are in danger of forgetting one salient fact: these are professional woman who earn their living from acting rather than fashion, a truth that tends to get forgotten in today’s celebrity saturated culture.

As the fiscal aftermath of the writer’s strike continues to hit home for many in the industry, provocative fashion choices would have been in bad taste, and most of the red carpet attendees seemed to have taken this on board. That is if they walked the red carpet. This was the year when eschewing the crowds seemed cooler than ever, with several presenters, including Penelope Cruz only appearing in front of the cameras for the first time when they arrived on stage.

Several key styling truths seemed to have been ignored. Take Anne Hathaway in one of the only statement dresses on the red carpet, a somewhat over the top scarlet Marchesa creation: her stylist seemed to have forgotten that when putting a celebrity’s look together, it’s vital to shoot her before the event from every angle, including from the ground up. In several shots she looked almost pregnant, with billowy arms and rather too much blousiness going on.

Cameron Diaz needs to buy a hair brush, and engage the services of a make up artist: over the age of thirty acting all breathless and deshabillé at a red carpet event is no longer charming, it just looks kinda slutty. It would also have helped to have had her pale pink Dior frock fitted properly. The rolls of back fat squeezed over the bodice (on a slim woman) were an appalling slip up.

The Oscars: Red Carpet Fashion 2008

This is the first time that I’ve been in the US for the Oscars, and I’m amazed by the levels of excitement. I guess the time difference in England means it’s difficult for people to get worked up about a show that happens in the middle of the night.

Back in London, I’m one of the only two people I know who actually stays up all night to watch it, usually snuggled under a duvet in my nightie and bedsocks, with lots of chocolate & popcorn supplies. The other is my film director friend, but she has a daughter now, and sleep is precious.

Until this year, I've always been a guest on BBC network radio the next morning to discuss the red carpet fashion, so I’m rather looking forward to not having to pay such close attention this time. And, even though I do have some copy to file for Monday morning, at least I have ten hours to do so, rather than the five I get in England because of the time difference.

There are so many Oscar parties here in Manhattan, but I’ve plumped for the Soho House one, darling. They are putting up screens on the sixth floor clubhouse, and running a red carpet viewing from 6pm. It’s member’s only, but two of my friends are members too so, between us, we have nine guests. The plan is to bags a corner where we can ensconce ourselves and do eating and gossiping.

I’m hoping that there will be something as beautiful as Reese Witherspoon's friled silk jacquard Nina Ricci dress this year.Apparently Olivier Theyskens actually made two similar versions of this dress to take to Los Angeles, each one with those intricate hand tucked frills. The hours of workmanship for each dress must have been quite extraordinary. (There’s a frilled dress with a similar technique, if you want to get up close to one, on show at The Met’s Costume Institute show on now.)

Image: OSCAR.com

Celebrity spawn

Christ Giles gets my goat. He continues to show in a space too small to fit in the majority of the press, yet fills his front row with fashion irrelevancies. Last season it was David Walliams, Margo Stilley & Savannah Miller, this year it was Lily Allen, Bee Shaffer, Francesca Versace and Kimberley Stewart. And what do they all have in common? They are the spawn of famous people. And let’s fine that down: people who famous for having a career of several decades, not several seconds.

Today’s published sharply falling ABCs (magazine circulation figures) are being put partly down to the public’s dwindling interest in D-list celebs. Please, please let that be true.

It's not just Kate Moss...

Page Six.com reports today that Kirsten Dunst, the current face of Miu Miu, has checked into rehab at the Cirque Lodge in Utah, most recently home temporarily to Lindsay Lohan. She’ll be joining the new face of Calvin Klein, Eva Mendes, who checked in just last week.

Shoreditch House

It's been strange being back in London, but not really feeling well enough to do much more than eat my way through a Creme Egg mountain and play with the hound. I've seen relatively few friends, confining myself to the odd supper or lunch in people's homes, with just a couple of outings.

Last week I hopped across town to Soho House's East London outpost, Shoreditch House, for a drink with a friend of a friend. He writes the tell-all, very funny and faintly obnoxious anonymous Cityboy column in The London Paper. I got to hang out with the charming, urbane and generous man behind the construct, rather than Cityboy. Thank God.

SH was crawling with, ahem, celebrities, although I use the word lightly, given that we are talking about Daisy Lowe, Mika and the cast of Shameless. Ms Lowe, in a mini crini and thigh high socks, was being filmed for some BBC documentary at a PR supper in the private dining room.

Cityboy pottered off into the night, & I went onto dinner in SH's Kitchen Dining Room with an old schoolfriend, where we were served some of the worst restaurant food I have eaten in London in years: gluey cauliflower soup (minus the listed truffles), soggy pizza, over cooked broccoli and uncrispy school dinner roast potatoes. The menu was curiously absent of anything that sounded delicious for either carnivores or vegetarians. I thought the whole thing shameful. And expensive.

We perked up when my NY ex-flatmate, the glam stylist Miss JD, appeared as if by magic at our table, fresh from the meal with Miss Lowe. A lovely surprise. And then we bumped into fashion photographer Chloe Mallett whom I shot with last Autumn. A quadruple friends bonus of an evening, which sent me off home with a welcome skip in my step because, if I had flogged across London purely to eat that rubbish* food, I would have been stomping home (via the chippie).

*High class reviewing term

TYRA BANKS IN NEW FASHION REALITY SHOW

WGSN reports that talk show host and former supermodel Tyra Banks is set to present a new reality TV show that's out to find a fashion magazine editor.

IMDB reveals that the show is being dubbed "The Apprentice meets The Devil Wears Prada. Producer Ken Mok says: "It is a competition show about aspiring assistants looking to become assistant editors at a fashion magazine."

Bosses are said to be looking for a magazine to participate with the series, which is set to air on US network, CW, this spring.

Now I know how professional musicians feel about Pop & American Idol.

Heath Ledger

In the midst of life we are in death.
Requiescat in pace

Giorgio Armani Privé show this evening

It's a sign of the times that when a fashion house shows a new collection, the first act of the in-house press office is to email journalists images of the celebrity attendees in hope of making the next day's papers. Forget the clothes, or the models in the clothes. Those pictures are no longer enough to sell newspapers. Mr Armani showed his Privé Collection as part of the Paris Couture this evening, with a celeb filled front row to ensure him some press coverage. Armani stalwarts Claudia Cardinale & Sophia Lauren were joined by Hilary Swank, Ellen Pompeo and Dita von Teese. Given that the Golden Globes were cancelled, and award season has been somewhat muted so far due to the writers' strike, I would have expected a higher celeb count. So often, Armani's ladies look somewhat trussed up in over elaborate, over embroidered, over brocaded numbers, which are often far too old for them (Katie Holmes springs to mind), but when these pictures from the Armani press office in Milan tipped up in my inbox this evening, I was struck by the relative elegance & simplicity of the outfits. I think I am going to pin up this picture of Mss Loren & Cardinale as an expemplar of soignée aging. Bellissima. (Britney et al take note.)

Photos: Courtesy of Armani Press Office, Milano

Baby bump camouflage

So, Nicole Kidman is pregnant: that'll explain why she did an entire indoors press junket at the over-heated Waldorf Astoria back in late November, wrapped in an enormous black wool winter coat. I was sitting inches away from her as she promoted her new flick Margot at the Wedding and, eejit that I am, it never occurred to me that she might be hiding a baby bump from the eagle eyes of the world's press. If anything, I presumed she was hiding her rather skinny bod, fed up with hacks commenting that she was too thin...

Addendum:
A toxic commentator has joyously left me a charming billet doux. My riposte is in the comments section.

My quintessential Manhattan in 2007

Bicycling around Central Park with the barrister. Staying at M's glorious apt in the West Village and waking up to find it had snowed overnight. Top of the Rock with Liz. Finding the perfect skirt for $2 in the East Village Flea Market. Being placed front row at several fashion shows: unexpected but always pleasing. Freewheeling down Broadway on my bike. CSS at Irving Plaza with Laura. Riding the rollercoaster at Coney Island. Managing to make cupcakes in my toaster oven. Sunbathing by the pool on the roof of Soho House. Casa Mono with Henry. Hotel room hanging with Garbage. Dressing up as a Deadly Sin for Hallowe'en. Brunch at The Carlyle with my parents. Making out with a preppie banker. Oxenberg cash-llama scarves. Sunday lunch with Barry Humphries & Angelica Huston on Ed's penthouse roof terrace. Suppers of raspberry martinis and French fries with BA. Dachshunds everywhere. Always having painted nails. Birthday supper at Morandi. Brooklyn Botanic Garden with Muv & sis. Strand Books. Wine & therapy with Mich. Eating hot dogs at Crif Dogs in the East Village. Kaiser Chiefs at Hammerstein Ballroom. Picnic-ing in Union Square with Clare. Guacamole. The Waverly Inn with CA. Dropping $600 on frocks on my birthday in the sale at Miguelina on Bleecker. Dating a boy in Brooklyn. Swimming in an open-air pool on a pontoon in the East River. Looking like high class call girls at the Four Seasons with JD. Riding a police horse in Central Park. The Whistlers at The Frick. Dancing to The Cure at Beatrice Inn.

Le Rev & CC Sheffield in Manhattan

During CMJ in October I hopped it down to Fontana's on the Lower East Side for Los Angeles' Viper Rooms' series of showcase gigs. On the Friday I was there to support my gorgeous friend Julian aka Shah (ex-Whitey) who had flown in from LA to play bass for CC Sheffield's band Le Rev.

A somewhat odd evening. Julian whisked us up to backstage before the show, and I sat down with CC who charmed me from the get go. Intelligent, self-deprecating and funny, she is a talented actress & model who puts a large chunk of her earnings into her self-financed band. She hasn't taken the easy option of churning out pretty girl pop, and instead plays a fantastic post-punk set. It has to be said she also looks fabulous.

After jumping about like a Mexican bean during their (very good) set, I retired backstage to regroup & get stuck into the vodka. Which is when Julian appeared, uttering the immortal line, "Harvey Weinstein wants to meet you."

Somewhat tipsy, and very unbelieving (Fontana's isn't exactly a glam venue), I followed him downstairs, weaving through the grubby dancefloor to the front bar where Harvey Weinstein was indeed perched across a bar stool, talking with CC, who had told him a writer from XXXXX was in the house. Hence the summons. Turns out he's a very big fan of the band and of CC, who he thinks will go far. We chatted for a while, and then I made myself scarce, whisking into the bathrooms to scrawl down, rather illegibly, Harvey's pearls of wisdom.

Check out Le Rev's MySpace, and CC's blog.

Hokum

January is a pretty dull month. If you happen to find yourself in London, then may I suggest that you relieve the pre-fashion week boredom by booking yourself a ticket to Hokum, master magician Pete Firman's show at The Bloomsbury Theatre on Friday 25 January 2008.

Thank you.

US Elle December 2007 issue

Oh my goodness. What have they done to Keira Knightley?

What to wear during New York Fashion Week

I keep thinking about how cold it's going to be here in February. I remember buying a down coat in London for my friend M who lives near Lake Geneva/Lac Léman & shipping it out to Switzerland for her, all the time thinking, no, no, no way would I ever wear something as style-deficient as that. Now, after barely surviving the -10F temperatures during New York Fashion Week last February, I know better. I don't just want one, I need one. Sod style, I can always take it off once inside the tents.

Unfortunately they aren't something you can just pick up at a moment's notice and, after my usual meticulous on-line research I think this may be my baby. It has a 700 down fill which appears to be the down flll gold standard. It's also made by North Face, which my mountain goat friends Nick & Nigel assure me is A Good Thing, & it's an emminently affordable $298 at this site.

Then, of course, I discovered this:



The Canada Goose Arctic-Tech Mystique Parka. I thought it was a particularly naff name, until I read that it was inspired by the jacket made for Rebecca Romijn to wear off-camera during the filming of X-Men 2. As they point out, if the Mystique Parka can keep an actress wearing little more than blue body paint warm in Arctic shooting conditions, it's capable of handling whatever the city can throw in anyone's direction.

Unfortunately it's a bit out of my price range (seeing as it is something I have to have rather than something beautiful I lust after) at $549 on the same site

I'm in heaven

Planet Hiltron may be the best blog ever.

I love Cate Blanchett

I have to thank the heavenly Fug girls for alerting me to this ravishing photograph of Cate Blanchett at the premiere of Elizabeth: The Golden Age in Los Angeles on Monday. I know this sari/toga hybrid would look utterly ludicrous on anyone else, but Christ she works it with panache. The simplicity. The clear colour. Perfection. But no one has identified it anywhere on-line: I'm presuming it is Dior - remarkably similar to a mustard dress in Resort 07/08, and the yellow dress Kate Hudson wore to Dior Couture in July - and she has a long-standing relationship with the house. But: Valentino did a red carpet sari-esque dress for J-Lo, Cavalli has been known to do them to, and Cate pretty much wears Armani to everything at the moment. Anyone?