Tuesday, October 09, 2007

British Fashion Award nominee list fails to set the world on fire - again

JesusChristonabike. The BFC announces the nominees for the British Fashion Awards today (Well, actually the nominee list is embargoed until Wednesday 10, but according to my London clock, as opposed to my New York one, it's 0433am on Weds in London, so I reckon it's Wednesday where it matters.) And what a dismal reflection of British fashion they are today. Reproduced in full are the categories & the nominees for each.

DESIGNER OF THE YEAR - A leading British designer of couture, ready-to-wear, knitwear or accessories who has directed the shape of fashion in the past year both in the UK and internationally.

Nominees - Anya Hindmarch , Luella Bartley, Stella McCartney

Is this really the best they could come up with? No one with a fashion bone in their body could possible argue that any of these three labels 'shape' fashion.

Anya Hindmarch may be a commercial success and make perfectly nice handbags, pretty shoes & cashmere sweaters but 'directed the shape of fashion in the past year both in the UK and internationally'? Are the BFC on drugs?
I am presuming that along with the massive bribe that the BFC paid Luella to return to the UK for London Fashion Week, that this nomination is part of the same package deal because she's hardly influential.
Stella McCartney: Great clothes. I'm a huge fan, always something I want to wear in her (or her team's) collections, but again who exactly is she influencing? (Apart from a legion of Chinese rip-off merchants)

NEW DESIGNER - An innovative and directional designer who, in the past year, has emerged as an influential force in British fashion.

Nominees - Christopher Kane, Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab

No problems with this, and obviously it should go to Christopher Kane who is influential AND commercial - in a good way.

BEST NEW RETAIL CONCEPT - A new or established retailer offering a new concept to the UK in the past year.

Nominees - The Shop at Bluebird, Dover Street Market, Marc Jacobs

Hmm - tenuous at best. They are shops. Big wow.

MODEL - A British model who has contributed most to the international fashion scene in the past year.

Nominees - Agyness Deyn, Lily Cole, Irina

Well, they can't give it to Kate, Erin's a personality now, and these three are the only other girls of whom the public has heard. Agyness will win, obviously

ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR - A British stylist, make-up artist, photographer, art director or producer whose creativity has been a major inspiration and influence in the past year.

Nominees - Mert and Marcus, Michael Howells, Terry Jones

Bit long in the tooth, aren't they?

RED CARPET DESIGNER - A leading British designer of couture or ready-to-wear cocktail or eveningwear that has gained exposure at ‘red carpet’ events worldwide in the past year.

Nominees - Giles Deacon, Marchesa, Stella McCartney

Like 'em or loathe them, but it's obviously Marchesa as they dress most of Harvey Weinstein's favourites. (Hmm, why's that then? Oh yes, he's sleeping with Georgina Chapman.) I can recall Thandie Newton wearing Giles - and that's about it. Stella - huh?

MENSWEAR DESIGNER - A leading British designer of ready-to-wear and bespoke tailoring who has been instrumental in enhancing men's fashion in the past year.

Nominees - Christopher Bailey for Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Cassette Playa

Yawn. Until we get to Cassette Playa. Er - does she actually sell anything? Doesn't 'leading' imply a strong commercial business? And what about Kim Jones?

ACCESSORY DESIGNER - The leading British designer of shoes, jewellery, millinery or accessories within the past year.

Nominees -Anya Hindmarch, Rupert Sanderson, Tom Binns

Well, Tom's been based in LA for a while now, and hardly anyone outside the industry knows his work in the UK, or that he's even British, so not exactly a cracking choice, beautiful, amazing and wonderful though his work may be. Anya - oh god. All praise the queen of anodyne. Although at least it wasn't Lulu Guinness nominated instead. Rupert Sanderson: Wonderful shoes, love 'em, even covet 'em but he doesn't exactly push the envelope, does he? But: based in London, new shop, making money, good press, truly lovely man. I say this is Rupert's year.